The story of Coklje – the cosy Croatian traditional footwear

Coklje (Photo: Private album)

Coklje are traditional footwear popular in Lika, known for their durability and unique design. The craft of making coklje has been recognised as an intangible cultural heritage of Croatia.

These footwear consist of a woven upper and felted wool, which, after weaving, is treated to increase its strength. Historically, the wool was felted at the source of the Gacka River in Sinac, a practice no longer possible today. 

The inner part of the coklje is knitted with five needles, featuring a distinctive pattern on the front. This knitted part is then sewn with pieces of felt. 

(Photo: Private album)

The most famous are the “lešćarske” coklje, named after Ličko Lešće near Otočac. 

In Kuterevo, women used to reinforce the coklje with rubber soles. Through meticulous craftsmanship, beautifully sewn footwear is created.

Dragica Rogić president of the Gačanka Otočac Association (Photo: Private album)

The only difference in coklje lay in the patterns women chose to knit, reflecting their individual skills. Even today, some women in Lika continue to make coklje using traditional methods, although they often use different materials due to the scarcity of felt. 

(Photo: Private album)

One associations still teaching coklje-making to ensure these customs are passed down to younger generations is the Gačanka Otočac Association.

Since 2004, the Gačanka Otočac Association has been dedicated to creating traditional Lika folk costumes and conducting workshops on traditional crafts. 

Their activities focus on preserving and promoting the cultural and natural resources of the area, raising awareness about the importance of history, environment, and cultural heritage among both residents and visitors. 

They strive to preserve and revive forgotten trades, such as wool processing, and leverage these skills for tourism.

(Photo: Private album)

Gačanka Otočac Association is highly active in safeguarding the traditional and cultural-historical heritage of Lika. 

They collect and purchase sheep wool, craft men’s and women’s folk costumes, and showcase traditional wool and linen products at fairs and exhibitions in Croatia and abroad. Their traditional crafts center in Otočac houses a permanent exhibition and a wool processing workshop. 

Their efforts have expanded the range of souvenirs, enhancing the local tourism offering.

(Photo: Private album)

Notably, they handcraft the distinctive Lika cap and traditional Lika bags using the unique “kličanje” weaving technique, aiming to make these patterns recognisable even in modern designs.

(Private album)

Coklje Festival in Otočac

The rich cultural heritage of coklje is also celebrated every year at the Coklje Festival in Otočac. This is a unique street art festival where tradition, creativity, and entertainment intertwine and attracts hundreds of visitors.