Eat Me Dalmatia – Part 2

Eat Me Dalmatia – Part 2

by S.P

This year we started our family holiday in Dubrovnik where a friend of mine has a rental place. After sampling some of Dubrovnik’s delights we moved on to Pelješac. A peninsula in the south of Croatia.

I think it is still a bit undiscovered by tourists but it is basically wine central to me. Here is where the Dingač is made and if you are a friend of heavy red wines this is heaven in the Adriatic.

Pelješac peninsula (photo: Andrea Šain / Orebic Tourist Board)

Needless to say, I am a big fan of Dingač. I have also booked a table at Kapetanova kuća which several unconnected people recommended. I am wearing clothes loose around the waist and am ready.

Upon arrival at the restaurant, I have to say it does not look like that much. It is in the harbour of Mali Ston next to another much more modern looking restaurant.

Oysters to start it must be. Ston is famous for them. So when in Rome…

Ston oysters

We order some more mixed shells for starters and the Dingač. We have the Matuško Reserva 2010. I am starting to like it here. The atmosphere is casual but very friendly. We pick a biggish Seabream for our main course.

It comes baked together with potatoes, carrots, and other vegetables. It melts in your mouth. It is utter perfection and I eat and eat. The loose fitting clothing was the best idea I had today.

The Seabream & vegetables

Whilst taking seconds and thirds, I am estimating how many hours I will workout when I get home. But surely this Dalmatian food and Dingac fat aren’t like fast food fat? I mean this is first-class weight I am putting on. It must be different!?

The waiter suggests I have a local dessert- the Ston cake. Although I am full and can barely move I order it. I am already wearing a bib which the restaurant kindly supplied. I will diet some other day and just not wear any jeans anymore. Like ever. Was the desert worth it? Certainly yes. It is in fact made out of pasta they call Makaruli and has a lovely crunch and sweetness to it. I am glad I gave up jeans for my Ston cake.

With the supplied bibs

Overall I was very impressed. Service was great, food even better. Local wine divine.

Ston cake (Photo: Kapetanova Kuca)

After Pelješac we catch a ferry to the mainland and spend a night in Makarska. We planned to go to Mljet but luck would not have it. I have not been in Makarska for ages but I have the feeling it is easier to find flamingo floaties in all colours than a good restaurant.

Google helps. We call restaurant Jeny (in nearby Tučepi) and they agree to pick us up from the hotel. Brownie points. They have only a set menu paired with local wines. Intrigued. The pickup is straightforward and the restaurant has a stunning position over the bay. Some of the best views we had so far.

View at Jeny

Five courses paired with wine coming up. I am in great eating form. The courses come lovely presented and the service is excellent. We start with a Dalmatian salat interpretation- cured ham and octopus paired with Bernobic Rose cabernet sauvignon 2016. Lovely start.

Next are smoked scallops and ssea bass paired with a 2016 Chardonnay from Provic. The wine complements the dish nicely and the ripe fig tree next to our table gives such a nice atmosphere far away from blow up flamingos and fast food places.

Jeny

Next, we get served three birds with blue potatoes. Duck, pheasant, and quail paired with a Pinot Noir from sontacchi 2015. The highlight of the meal, all birds being cooked to perfection, succulent and tender.

Next, we get a sirloin of beef and veal paired with an Ivan Dolac Vujnovic Plavac 2013. If you go for the full bodied red wines like I do- try some of this and some Dingač. The sauces on this dish are very interesting, elevating the dish.

Last but not least we are getting a combo of Lemon meringue pie, orange and rosemary sorbet and cheesecake paired with Corona Grande Benvenuti 2015. Delicious.

I was very pleased with this restaurant. Hospitality and pick up. Service was smooth. Wines were nicely paired with great looking and tasting dishes. Views to die for. I would really recommend this, especially if you would like to be introduced to Croatian wines.