Pazin Cave: An adventure in vibrant green and pitch black

Pazin is the largest city in central Istria, and is the administrative capital of the region. With a population of less than 9,000 residents, it is a small town with a lot of charm—and some cool things to do. 

As someone who has seen too many castles over our past five years of nomadic travel, I was pleasantly surprised by the Pazin Castle, one of the top two tourist attractions in the city. 

(Photo: Private album)

This 1200 year old castle, like many, has had lots of turmoil and turnover of owners through the centuries, but is in remarkable condition. What I found particularly refreshing, is that it is very much in its “natural condition,” as opposed to being so modernized to take away its charm.

The other attraction is the giant canyon directly behind the castle, home of the glorious Pazin Cave, also known as Pazinska Jama, which offers Speleo Adventures, where you can take a two hour tour inside the cave. Even though I have visited over 45 countries in my life, and 37 in the past five years, this was a treat—and something I have never done.

The adventure starts at the top of the large canyon with an introduction with manager Mladen and his team of two guides, both named Sasha. Mladen and his wife started offering these tours in 2013 and over the past decade had to create the trails and install the necessary equipment to make the tours possible. We were told that their season is brief and starts after the winter rains recede, and even in the offseason, he and his team are busy preparing the trails and everything connected, since they can get damaged by the rain and elements. 

Once we were outfitted with helmets and headlamps, it was down the fairly moderate trail to the bottom where the river Pazinčica flows, and that is what created the Pazinska Jama. From there the foliage and rocks glow with the most vivid colors of green, which is caused by the moss growing on the rocks leading inside.

(Photo: Private album)

Our female guide Sasha walked us through the process of hooking up to the first of two ziplines which took us inside the first section of cave. The other Sasha was there to receive us, and from there on it was one step at a time, which was challenging, though not dangerous.

(Photo: Private album)

The biggest risk was losing footing on the slippery, mossy rocks, but the cave is well prepared with ropes running along the most slick areas, and metal foot holdings are embedded into the most strategic places for extra protection.

(Photo: Private album)

No question, a venture like this can be scary for many since it involves hiking, climbing on slippery rocks, and trusting that a zip line is safe. All those concerns can be abandoned as the tour is fun as well as adventurous and extraordinarily informative.

(Photo: Private album)

All along we were educated on the tunnel and shown the stalactites and stalagmites that are hanging from the ceiling, as well as climbing from the cave floor. Since winter rains can be prolific, the cave usually floods many meters up the wall, and can completely fill with water, which prevents the growth from getting too large. When you are at the lowest point, about 200 meters inside, the cave ends with about 80 meters of rock above you and total darkness. 

(Photo: Private album)

As we reached that point, we experienced probably the blackest black in my life since not an atom of light enters the cave. It’s an eerie feeling not seeing your hand which is perched just millimeters away from your face, and it truly makes you appreciate the value of sight—and light.

(Photo: Private album)

But this was a prime time for a photo exhibition where Sasha #2 shared pictures in the pitch dark of the different endemic life in the cave, including several varieties of frogs, salamanders, and shrimp. He also showed archival photos of the cave over the years, including some years where flooding was massive, so it truly demonstrated the power of nature.

(Photo: Private album)

(Photo: Private album)

On our “Speleo Adventure” was a family with two small children, about eight and 12. Though the youngest had some fear, she marshalled on and proved that if a child can do it, than yours truly, at age 69, and my wife Kathleen, 70, can as well. We were told that they once escorted a young boy into the cave who was born with no arms, and when they finished it was an emotional moment for everyone.

(Photo: Private album)

Comfortable shoes with tread are a must, but other than that, as long as you have a sense of adventure and a desire to try something that many never do, I highly recommend the Pazin Cave Tour. You can also connect with them on Facebook or Pazin Pit (which offers a great video overview!), and reservations are required. 

(Photo: Private album)

(Photo: Private album)

About the author

Norm Bour has been a full time travel journalist and nomad since leaving the US in 2019 with his wife, then girlfriend, at ages 64 and 65. He just hit country #35 since then, and in total has been to 47 different ones. As a baby boomer, his mission is to encourage, motivate and inspire the “Fifty Plus” crowd to experience life while they are able. Norm and Kathleen live a higher quality life outside the US with much less money, and his blog, www.TravelYounger.com, shares their experiences from the beginning, along with all the lessons learned along the way. 

He recently wrote Nomadic Life for All Ages, which is available here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C47Q1JRH