Popular Croatian restaurant returns its Michelin star

(Photo: Draga di Lovrana)

In the past twenty years, an increasing number of chefs and restaurants have either returned or rejected Michelin stars due to the issues they have caused. The reasons for chefs and restaurants relinquishing stars vary, but common among them is the pressure they impose. 

Michelin-starred restaurants often face financial challenges, as their costs are high, especially in Croatia, which entered the Michelin radar relatively late. However, there have been no notable instances of renouncing Michelin stars in the country’s culinary scene until now.

Christian Nikolac, owner of Draga di Lovrana restaurant in Lovran on the western coast of Croatia’s Kvarner Bay, has told Dobra hrana about the return of its Michelin star. 

Five years ago, the restaurant proudly received the accolade, but it soon became burdensome. The focus shifted from the restaurant’s initial concept, and maintaining the star became exhausting. 

Last October, the restaurant closed, signaling Nikolac’s decision to free himself from the pressures of accolades and statuses. His daughter, Kelli Nikolac, expressed her desire to lead the hotel and restaurant with a fresh perspective, unburdened by accolades.

The restaurant plans to reintroduce familiar flavours through a new à la carte menu based on locally caught seafood and dishes typical of the Kvarner Bay with strong influences from Italian cuisine. 

Alongside culinary changes, the restaurant’s interior will undergo a complete makeover, blending modern touches with its traditional 19th-century architectural style. Christian Nikolac emphasises that while they appreciate Michelin stars, the pursuit of them brought more challenges than benefits. 

The restaurant aims to create a welcoming atmosphere where guests feel comfortable, free from formal dress codes, welcoming families and pets. Guests will have the freedom to order à la carte and enjoy a bottle of house wine while relaxing and socialising.

(Photo: Draga di Lovrana)

Nikolac openly discusses the reasons behind their decision, citing the burdensome and financially unsustainable direction the restaurant took after receiving the Michelin star. Draga di Lovrana no longer resembled the establishment they initially built with Chef Zdravko Tomšić, who spent 15 years crafting a vision of traditional Mediterranean cuisine with a modern twist, Dobra hrana wrrites.

While the road ahead may be challenging, Draga di Lovrana seeks to forge stronger connections with local and regional guests, creating an inviting space for larger gatherings to enjoy food, ambiance, and companionship. The decision to relinquish the Michelin star reflects their commitment to accessibility and inclusivity, marking a new chapter in the restaurant’s journey.

Restaurants currently with a Michelin star in Croatia are; Korak (Jastrebarsko), Pelegrini (Šibenik), 360º (Dubrovnik), Monte (Rovinj), Noel (Zagreb), Boškinac (Novalja), LD Restaurant (Korčula), Nebo (Rijeka), Alfred Keller (Mali Lošinj), and Agli Amici (Rovinj).