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Tourism’s toll on Istria’s magical beach and cave

Galebove stijene in Pula

Galebove stijene (Seagull’s rocks) in Pula

The influx of kayakers, tour boats, swimmers, and cliff jumpers at Pula’s most popular beach, home to the protected cave Galebove stijene (or Golubove stijene, known as La grotta dei colombi), has become unbearable this season, daily Jutarnji list writes.

As a result, the Pula Harbour Master has ordered the city to install protective barriers at the beach to safeguard swimmers, although these have yet to be installed.

However, this measure is unlikely to solve the growing issue at Galebove stijene, which becomes more evident each year.

The beach, located near Muzil, has gained significant attention due to social media, making it one of the most popular beaches in Istria, particularly because of its intriguing sea cave.

In recent years, the cave has attracted not only swimmers but also kayakers and paddleboarders, leading to an overwhelming situation this year.

During the day, swimmers can hardly enter the cave without encountering a large number of tour kayaks, which regularly queue with their guides to access this natural phenomenon, a site under the protection of Natura Histrica due to the cave’s status as a protected feature.

This ‘circus’ is expected to continue for about another ten days. However, as Silvia Buttignoni, the director of Natura Histrica, which oversees protected natural phenomena including caves, announced, the situation will change next year.

The cave, partially submerged and protected, is situated in a maritime area managed by the City of Pula.

The problem lies in the cave’s popularity, with a growing number of kayaks each year. Additionally, there are several unauthorised anchor points where tour boats from Fažana and Pula bring swimmers, further increasing pressure on the cave.

The best solution would be to close the cave to everyone except swimmers, but this has not been implemented this season.

The current heavy pressure on the site will ease in about ten days, but changes have already been announced to the kayak operators for next year.

Buttignoni emphasised that measures will be put in place next year in collaboration with the Pula Harbour Master and the City of Pula to ensure safety and preserve the cave’s natural state.

The details on how the cave visits will be regulated will be decided after the season ends.

Kayaks inevitably damage the rocks when entering the cave, and some tour organisers have even installed lighting inside the cave. This has been removed several times, as it encourages algae growth and disrupts the habitat.

In the past, the Mediterranean monk seal visited the cave for its tranquillity, as there is a small beach at the cave’s end, but this is no longer possible during the season.

Buttignoni also pointed out that due to the increasing popularity of tours, more kayaks launch from the nearby Valovine cove each year.

Many tour organisers occupy the beach for several hours during their trips, even without a concession permit, and some keep kayaks clustered in the water. Currently, only two concession holders are authorised to operate kayaks at this beach.

Others arrive in vans and unload the increasingly popular vessels in the parking area near the Stoja camp before heading off on their tours. While this is not illegal according to the Ministry of Maritime Affairs, the problem arises when these kayaks occupy the beach for hours during tours.

This year, Pula’s maritime inspectors have issued fines, but they are relatively small—€50 for individuals and €660 for businesses. On the other hand, the cost of these tours ranges from €40 to €50 per person, although prices are falling due to the large number of providers. Around ten tour agencies run several tours daily.

The main issue is that most kayakers do not pay the concession fee to the City of Pula. They simply arrive and launch 50 kayaks into the sea, making this a highly lucrative business in recent years.

 
 
 
 
 
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Additionally, it is difficult for tax authorities to monitor them as they operate on a mobile basis, pushing the boundaries of legality. Buttignoni concluded that this situation remains in a grey area.

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